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Nakhon Phanom
General Information
Located on the right bank of the majestic Mekong River is Nakhon Phanom an ancient city with a name that literally means of City of Hills. The lovely setting of the provincial capital is enhanced by the rugged beauty of jungle covered mountains which lie beyond the Laotian town of Tha Khaek, located on the opposite bank of the river. Nakhon Phanom is renowned as a great place with beautiful scenery and relaxing ambiance by the Mekong River.
With a history that dates back many thousands of years, the province is a melting pot of diverse ethnic cultures and traditions. However, the culture with the strongest influence on the architecture, customs and cuisine of the province is the Lao culture.
Encompassing a total area of 5,512 square kilometers, most of which are high hills and plains covered with lush and virgin forests, Nakhon Phanom is where Phra That Phanom, the most sacred and ancient religious monument of the Northeast, is located. Both Thais and Laotians usually make their pilgrimage to this highly venerated site to ask for blessings. In addition, visitors can experience the unique fusion of Thai and Lao arts and culture through customs such as the Bai-Sri-Su-Kwan ceremony (the extension of a generous welcome to guests when a potent brew of home-made liquor is usually served).
One of the important cities of upper I-San, Nakhon Phanom was once known as "Sri Kotrabun Kingdom". Most historians believe that when King Rama I ruled Vientiane, the area was named "Maruka Nakhon". It was later renamed "Nakhon Phanom", because of its outstanding geographical feature its location among many hills and mountains.
Throughout history, Laotians and people from other ethnic groups had migrated across the Mekong River. This recurring pattern of migration left its mark on the local dialects, customs and cuisine of Nakhon Phanom. Some historic treasures include folk dances such as the Sri Kotrabun dance, which is regarded as the symbolic dance of Nakhon Phanom's, the Fon Phu Thai, Sek-Ten-Sak and So Tung Bung that are performed on special occasions.
Nakhon Phanom, which is 740 kilometers from Bangkok, covers an area of 5,512 square kilometers and is comprised of the following districts: Mueang Nakhon Phanom, Pla Bak, Tha Uthen, Phon Sawan, Ban Phaeng, That Phanom, Renu Nakhon, Na Kae, Si Songkhram, Na Wa, Na Thom and Wang Yang.
Symbol
The provincial seal shows the pagoda of Phra That Phanom in Amphoe That Phanom. This highly revered religious building was originally constructed around 535 BC.
The provincial tree, as well as flower, is Fagraea fragrans.
Getting there
By Car
From Bangkok
Take the Bangkok-Nakhon Ratchasima route, then proceed to Ban Phai along Highway No. 2, take Highway No. 23 and Highway No. 213 to Sakhon Nakhon Province via Maha Sarakham and Kalasin Provinces and continue the trip along Highway No. 22 to Nakhon Phanom for a total distance of 740 kilometers.
Take Highway No. 1, Pahonyothin Road, to Saraburi. At the main junction, kilometer 107 marker, turn right onto Highway 2 (Friendship Highway) and proceed past Nakon Ratchasima Province to Ban Phai (a district of Khon Kaen Province) and turn right onto Highway 23. Follow the route to Maha Sarakham, Kalasin, Sakon Nakhon and Nakhon Phanom Provinces for a total distance of 735 kilometers.
By Bus
Buses depart from Bangkok's Northern Bus Terminal (Mochit 2 Bus Terminal) to Nakhon Phanom Province every day between 6.00 a.m. and 8.00 p.m. There are different classes of bus services provided - regular, air-conditioned and VIP with fares ranging from 360 baht to 579 baht). For more information call Transport Co. Ltd. Tel. 0 2936 2852-66. Alternatively, you can visit www.transport.co.th to find more up-to-date information on schedules and fares.
To/From other neighboring provinces
Regular bus services operate between Nong Khai to Nakhon Phanom via Sakon Nakhon at the rate of 79 bahts, while air-conditioned buse services are provided hourly from 6 a.m. to 11 a.m. at the rate of 143 baht.
From Udon Thani regular bus services are provided at the rate of 128 baht, while air-conditioned bus services are provided at the rate of 211 baht.
In addition, bus services between Nakhon Phanom and Mukdahan Provinces are provided on an hourly basis from 5.00 a.m. to 5.00 p.m. daily, while air-conditioned buses services between Nakhon Phanom and Khorat Provinces are provided 3 times a day at the rate of 264 baht.
By Boat
A ferry boat across the Mekong River to Tha Khaek, in Laos, costs 40 baht per person; in both directions. Only travelers traveling with valid Lao visas are permitted to cross to Tha Khaek.
By Air
PB Air provides daily flight services from Bangkok to Nakhon Phanom, except Tuesdays and Saturdays. For more information, contact their Bangkok office at tel. 0-2261-0220 5.
Thai Airways International provides daily flight services between Bangkok and Nakhon Phanom with a flight time of 1.10 hours. In addition, there are flights from Sakon Nakhon to Nakhon Phanom (25 minutes, 300B), but not in the reverse direction. THAI Airways runs shuttle van between the airport, 16 kilometers away, and the city centre. For more information, contact the Bangkok office at tel. 0-2280-0060, 0-2628-2000 or visit its website at www.thaiairways.com.
Festivals
Bai Si Su Khwan Ceremony and Phu Thai Dance
The Phu Thai traditional dance will be splendidly performed at the festival during May and June each year. Rarely seen in todays classical dance, Phu Thai dance is concentrated on unity of the dancers. Phu Thai is an ethnic group that still welcomes their visitors by performing the Bai Si Su Khwan ceremony that follows by a Pha-laeng dinner. For those interested, please contact Mr. Chaibodin Saliphan at 042 579174 or 01 263 2458 for reservation. (at least 35 customers are required).
Illuminated Boats Procession
Illuminated Boats Procession is organised at the end of the Buddhist Lent or every November. Boats are illuminated with colourful lights and arranged into various designs to pay homage to Lord Buddha. Once lit up, the boats make for a spectacular sight. In conjunction with the festival, provincial authorities have also organised a boat race between Thai and Lao teams to promote good relations.
Phra That Phanom Fair
Phra That Phanom Fair takes place every February. Thousands of locals and people from nearby provinces flock to the temple to pay homage to this sacred place.
Interesting Products
Hand-woven Fabric
These products include traditionally woven Thai silk, cotton, Lao silk and Matmi clothes. The most popular products are silk and cotton which are produced locally in Renu Nakhon, That Phanom, Si Songkhram.
Khaen
This is I-Sans pipe instrument. Visitors can purchase them in Ban Tha Ruea, Na Wa and Ban Phanom.
Pla Ra
One of a variety of preserved fishes which originated in the old days, Pla Ra is made in Sri Songkhram District an area around the Sri Songkram River which is rich in numerous freshwater fish including striped catfish, Siamese giant carp, spotted featherback, great white sheatfish, as well as those found only in the Khong River and its branches such as Mekong Giant Catfish, thryssa, etc. It is believed that these fish swarm into the rivers to feed on the salty soil and to breed.
To make pla ra, the fish is cleaned and cut into pieces. Then it is mixed with salt and rice bran. The mixture is then stuffed into a big water jar, topped with a piece of wood to prevent the fish from becoming bloated, and left for 2 to 3 years before being eaten.
Pla Ra has become a well-know dish among Thais and foreigners alike. They are canned for export now. Pla Ra brings extra income to the villagers.
Preserved Tomato
Preserved tomato is made by cleaning tomatoes which are not too ripe, removing the seeds, and marinating them in brine for 1-2 hours and then removing the excess water. After that, the tomatoes are boiled in syrup. Before they are cooked, some lime juice is added to make the tomatoes glossy. They are then sun-dried and put in a jar and can be kept for a long time.
Reed Mats
Reed mats are made at Ban Lao Phatthana of Na Wa district.
Som Pla Do
A kind of preserved fish made from pla do or silver bard, it can be prepared in two ways. In the first method, the fish is cleaned and then squeezed under a piece of wood to rid it of water. Then it is ground and mixed with other ingredients including garlic, sugar, sticky rice and monosodium glutamate. In the second method, after the fish is cleaned, it is marinated in saline solution for 12 to 14 hours, cleaned, and mixed with boiled rice, salt and garlic.
This kind of preserved fish can be kept for a long time. It is also a good source of secondary income for the people.
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